River Trent Day 2

What a difference a day makes.  After spending a pleasant few hours cruising down the tidal Trent to Torksey I stopped overnight before completing the longer leg to Keadby.  As I woke to grey skies, strong winds and drizzle I knew a cold damp day lay ahead.  Setting off at 9:00 the wind was in my face an the tide was still rising so progress was slow for the first hour.  After about an hour I noticed the tide had turned and was now slowly ebbing allowing me to reach a dizzy 6 mph over ground.

There is little to see on this stretch as it largely meanders through open country.  The only large town on route is Gainsborough which retains many of it's large quays designed for much larger vessels that use to carry cargo here from Hull. 

The strong wind was blowing agains the ebbing river causing a 2 ft swell with small breaking waves. Not conditions the boat is designed for but she pushed through them with ease.  After a further 3 hrs of cold dull grey drizzle the M180 bridge appeared which meant that Keadby was only 3 miles away.

I have only made the turn into Keadby once before and was very chuffed to have managed it with out any problems.  It is quite tricky as you are trying to turn into a narrow lock entrance while the river tide is ebbing at around 3 mph.  This means you need to approach from downstream and gently ease across the current which lessens as you approach the entrance.  There are also some strange eddies caused my shallow mudbanks which build up around the entrance.   This a video of me doing it properly last time.  It's quite tricky balancing power and rudder against the tide and wind.  This time I got it wrong and hit the wall beneath the lock sign head on at around the 15 sec point in this clip.  No damage to the boat but the sudden stop was enough to eject some crockery and glassware from their cupboard.  Nothing a dustpan and brush couldn't tidy. 

Having put the big river behind me I'm now safely on the South Yorkshire Navigations.

The River Trent

Having joined the river Trent at Trent lock the navigation quickly leaves the main river and makes it way through Nottingham via the Nottingham and Beeston canal.   Thankfully some of the original warehouses have been retained and offer a glimpse of what my working predecessors might have seen as they arrived to deliver and collect goods from the wharfs. 

After meandering through the city the canal rejoins the mighty Trent at opposite the famous Trent Bridge cricket ground. Within a square mile are also the two football clubs, Notts City and County.  Just upstream is the City Hall with a splendid view over the river.

On the main river the locks become much larger and are operated by full time lock keepers who are contactable via VHF radio which makes the passage so much easier.  Almost like having a butler as one simply calls up on the radio and they will have the lock ready for your arrival.

The trip from Nottingham to Newark can be done in day but  took a leisurely two days stopping overnight at Gunthorp lock where I was treated to a beautiful sunset.

The approach to Newark is dominated by the remains of the riverside castle.  On the right is a splendid river boat, Sonning, offering trips up the river.

Newark is a welcome stop as it has good shopping facilities yet retains much of it's old market town charm.  The market dates fro m12C and was granted a Royal charter by king Edward VI in 1549. 

Beyond Newark the river broadens and only 5 miles north of  Newark reaches Cromwell lock beyond which the river is tidal.  It's always a little unnerving to realise that  after passing through this lock you are directly connected to the North Sea via the Humber estuary.  Unless I miss a turning I shan't be travelling that far.

Only a few miles onto the tidal reach one is reminded that much larger vessels operate on the river at  Besthorpe wharf where 600 ton barges can be loaded with gravel.

Today I traversed the first 16 miles of the trip stopping at Torksey lock overnight to await the morning tide to carry me on to Keadby.  The river is similar to a motorway in that it allows you to travel quicker but does not offer a great deal of scenery along it's route.

Tomorrow morning I'll head up the last 26 miles to rejoin the canal network on the South Yorkshire navigations at Keadby.

Milton Keynes to Nottingham

My week stop over in Milton Keynes had a couple of highlights.  Firstly watching three young Kestrels fledge succesfully from their nest and make their way in the world less than a mile from the city centre. 

And secondly a flying visit from my brother who popped in last weekend.  Always good to catch up with family.  Enjoying an evening watching the kestrels.

After Dave left I continued my journey northward. The first days took me through familiar waters via Stoke Bruerne and Buckby then onto the Leicester arm of the GU.  Shortly after joining the Leicester arm the canal climbs the 7 lock Watford flight as it shares the famous Watford Gap with a Roman road (A5) the M1and the west coast mainline - all of which make use of the gap in the surrounding hills.

After a 17 mile meander along the summit pound the canal reaches the stunning Foxton flight of 10 locks made top of 2 staircases of 5.  Sitting in the top lock you do feel you are on top of the world.

Once down the flight, courtesy of a team of volunteer lock keepers, the canal heads toward Leicester through a series of 24 barley maintained locks.  This is not one of my favourite canals as the locks are hard work and reaching Leicester is not really a highlight as there are only a few safe mooring spots as the city sadly has a bad reputation of boats being broken into for petty theft.

After a night on the secure moorings I made an early start to get out and back into the countryside.  Once clear of the city the canal joins the river Soar as it meanders through open countryside to Loughborough and eventually joins the river Trent a few miles west of Nottingham.  Above Loughborough is evidence of the restoration following the post-war decline of the inland waterways as road and rail killed the canal haulage business.  Here a new lock was built to replace the old derelict one.

I'm now moored up in Nottingham once again where I'll replenish supplies before moving on again tomorrow.  Another couple of days should get me to Newark where I'll stop for a day or two before moving onto the tidal Trent for the long run up to Keadby and the South Yorkshire navigations. From there I will make my way, via the Aire and Calder Navigation, to join the Leeds Liverpool canal.

Thames Ring Completed

Since leaving Milton Keynes in mid May I'm now back having completed the 250 mile Thames ring. From MK the route heads north (in my case) up the Grand Union canal to Braunston where it joins the Oxford canal an turns south to Oxford.  At Oxford the route moves on the river Thames to London where it rejoin the Grand Union at Brentford to return north to MK.  While on route I met several groups of runners who were competing in a biennial 250 mile non stop race.  They have 4 days to complete the course.  I also met a group of canoeists who were practicing for a similar event later this month.

After leaving central London the canal heads west along the Paddington Arm to rejoin the main Grand Union at bulls bridge.  Crossing the infamous North Circular via a large aqueduct which provides a rare dual carriageway on the canal.  

 The lower section of the GU is quite urban as it winds through the outskirts of Greater London through Uxbridge. Beyond Watford the views open up as the canal passes through Cassiobury park and Grove Park where the Earl of Essex insisted on having this picturesque bridge installed before allowing the canal to cross his land.

The canal then begins climbing the Chilterns through around 40 locks to reach the summit at Tring. The summit is only a few miles long and soon begins its decent at Marsworth where it passes one of my favourite canal side cottages.

A long lock filled day was rewarded with an impressive sunset.  

So now back in MK for a week before continuing north again.

There and Back Again - Regent's Canal

After spending a few days in Paddington Basin opposite the ingenious rolling bridge and was joined by my eldest son at the weekend for Father's Day.  Having been moored in the shade of St Mary's hospital I hadn't realised just how hot it was in the sun and decided to cruise across the Regent's canal to Limehouse Basin.

Rolling Bridge Merchant Square

The first few miles of the canal are the best as it leaves Little Venice and meanders through Regents's Park to Camden.  Both pretty and lock free.

Regents Park

Beyond Camden the canal drops through 12 locks over the remaining 10 miles to Limehouse.  Sadly the visitors moorings along the canal are fully taken by London boaters who just shuffle up and down the canal making it very difficult for visiting boats to moor. 

Leaving Camden Lock

 Limehouse Basin is where the canal meets the tidal Thames and home to a marina.  A quick look at their website showed that mooring my boat there would cost £10,000 per year - supply and demand.

Sunset over Limehouse

After spending Saturday evening at Limehouse we decided to have a short cruise up the Lee Navigation and take a lap around the loop which surrounds the Olympic Park.  The route passes close by the main stadium and the Orbit tower.

Main Stadium - Now home to West Ham

The Orbit

 Steve was a volunteer at the 2012 Olympics and, being an IT expert, worked in the media centre helping ensure the media remained connected to the sports and of course their papers.

The Olympic Media Centre

 Leaving the park and rejoining the Lee at old ford lock we headed upstream a few miles to find a mooring.  Progress was slow due to the covering of weed which tends to get wrapped around the propeller.

Weed on the Lee Navigation

Sunday evening we walked back through the park to the westfield centre for dinner.  After a couple of cooling drinks in The Cow pub we chose the Real Greek restaurant and enjoyed a very pleasant meal.

After spending a couple of nights on the Lee I filled up with diesel and made the return journey to Paddington Basin where I'm currently moored up awaiting the end of the heatwave this morning.  Next I'll make my way back on to the Grand Union and begin the journey north.

London

So I've spent the last few days making my way from Kingston upon Thames into the city joining the tidal Thames at the famous Teddington Locks.  This is the barge lock which at 650 ft long is only used when it's very busy.  As it takes an age to fill and empty.

I was directed into the the more normal sized launch lock which, thanks to Monty Python, is the home of fish slapping.  The video is available on Youtube and shows the content taking place in front of this small hut which now bears a blue plaque to commemorate the event.

I chose to take the easy route so only followed the tidal thames for around 4 miles before turning off at Brentford to join the Grand Union canal.  Just above Richmond stand the impressive Star and Garter house - sadly now sold and converted to apartments.

After a night in Brentford, one is enough, I made my way up the Hanwell lock flight along with another boater which shared the workload.  This is one of of my least favourite lengths of canal as it is shallow and fairly stagnant which results in a lot of methane being generated by the rotting vegetation on the bottom.  This is released as the propeller stirs the water resulting in an rather unpleasant aroma.  After clearing the flight it was just a few miles to Bulls Bridge junction where the Paddington arm branches east into the city for the final 12 miles into Little Venice and Paddington Basin.

Little Venice is a a largish triangle of water where the Paddington arm joins the Regents canal.

And just beyond is Paddington Basin, somewhat dwarfed by the tall blocks of Merchant Square on the left and St Mary's hospital on the right, where Alexander Fleming discovered Penicillin.

This will be home for the next week and I'm now looking forward to a visit from eldest at the weekend.

Windsor to Kingston upon Thames

Having spent a few days in Windsor I continued down the Thames through Chertsey, past Runnymede and Hampton Court Palace and am now moored up in Kingston-on-Thames.  Runnymede is of course famed for the signing of the Magna Carta, quite appropriate in Election week.  And also the John F Kennedy memorial. 

The rather splendid house boat "Astoria" dating from 1911 is moored in Hampton.  It was owned originally by the famous showman Fred Karno who used it to entertain guests including Charlie Chaplin.

It was bought by Pink Floyd guitarist Dave Gilmour in 1986 who converted into a recording studio because he spent half of his life in recording studios with no windows, no light, but ion the boat there are many windows, with beautiful scenery on the outside.

And now I'm preparing to tackle the tidal Thames through central London and looking forward to passing the houses of parliament and tower bridge.