Cambridge to Peterborough

After the tranquility of Wicken Fen I made my way up the river Cam into the city of Cambridge. I managed to pick the end of "Bumps" week when the college rowing teams race against each other. They don't actually close the river for this which makes navigation interesting as one meets a 50ft long boat travelling towards you at speed. It is ironic that the narrowest vessels on the river are transformed into the widest due to the very long oars (or blades to those in the know). By hugging the bank I managed to leave them the vast majority of the river to shoot by. The situation was complicated by the fact that there is a short stretch of river where the normal keep right rule is reversed requiring boats to swap sides on the approach to a bend and to swap back a few hundred yards later. This is because the rowing eights cannot navigate the bend on the right and need to take the wider line on the left. Of course this required me to make a dash across the river knowing that I may meet a fast eight head on midstream. Thankfully I managed to reach Cambridge without incident although there were a few close calls. This is just a single scull I met on the way back. 

Cambridge is a beautiful city with much stunning architecture, mainly the many colleges, which I know well having lived nearby for over 20 years. However, after meandering for several miles through open countryside and large meadows 

the rivers final approach to the city is rather spoilt by a number of poorly maintained boats on the long term moorings along one bank, some of which were in such a poor state I was surprised they remained afloat. The other bank is home to the various college boathouses which are in stark contrast to some of the  boats moored opposite.

As an aside, when in Ely, I noticed some very muscular chaps rowing in Cambridge shirts. I've since learned that the actual University rowing team of Thames boat race fame actually practice at Ely as the river is straighter and not cluttered up with amateur college rowers. 

 

The visitors moorings in Cambridge are limited to about 8 boats which made mooring tricky. I managed to squeeze onto the end of the mooring below the weir at Jesus lock. 

After a couple of days I headed back to Ely where Carol McEwan, an old colleague from Wyton, popped over one evening and joined me for dinner in the Cutter Inn. 

I've spent the last few days making my way back across the fens to the Nene. The trip over the middle levels is largely through man made drainage channels which are wide and straight with high banks which limit the view of the surrounding fens. There are times when the boat seems to be making no progress along the apparently endless channel. 

And if it looks a long way to the next bend, looking back shows it's just as far from the last one.

However, there are a few pretty villages along the way which offer a welcome diversion and the opportunity to check the tiller still works after a couple of hours without a bend. 

This morning I crossed through Stanground lock onto the Nene at Peterborough. The embankment moorings at Peterborough can be a bit noisy it the weekend due to Al fresco drinkers so I continued a few miles to Ferry Meadows park which offers a lovely tranquil mooring which I currently have all to myself. 

I'll return to Peterborough next week for a few days before heading up the river onto the canals.

Ely & Wicken Fen

After a month around St Ives moving only a couple of miles every few days I made the 23 mile 6hr trip to Ely. There are only 3 locks on this stretch and 2 of theses were faulty causing a bit of a delay. Doesn't really bother me but Mr Angry on another boat gave the poor lock keeper a hard time. Silly really as it's not his fault. After passing by Holywell and Earith the river meanders through open country until Ely. 

After spending a couple of days in Ely and taking the train to visit my son in Peterborough I was planning on staying in Ely over the weekend until I remembered that it is a 48hr mooring so I had to move on. I chose to head a few miles onto the river Cam and then travel down the very narrow but beautiful Wicken Lode through the famous Wicken Fen. Progress was slow due to narrow, shallow channel and the weed but well worth the effort for the views. 

I managed to catch a few pics of the local birds including an Oyster Catcher 

And a family of Great Crested Grebes. I love the cute striping on the chicks heads. 

A few weeks on home waters

After crossing the middle levels I was joined by Paul who volunteered to double the crew for a day to bring the boat along the Gt Ouse to St Ives. A pleasant day for cruising the river and just what I needed as I was shaking off the black dog. 

During the trip Paul serenaded me with my saxophone, anything to avoid work. 

We moored up by the bridge in St Ives and managed a quick pint in the Robin Hood. 

The weather has been mainly dry but cool with some stunning sunsets and sunrises. 

Since arriving I've spent the last few weeks moored up at either St Ives, Huntingdon and Godmanchester and have been visited by a few old friends including Geoff & Lisa Osbourne, Malcolm Harley and Paul & Debbie Beaumont. It's been a lovely few weeks and given me the chance to recharge by batteries, and my wine cellar, and I'm now ready once again to travel the canals for a few months. 

Im planning to make my way back through the fens to Peterborough and then up the Nene to join the Grand Union canal.

Normal service is resumed

I haven't updated the blog for a couple of months due to the return of an ongoing illness. Thankfully, due to support of family and friends, I can put this period behind me an continue to enjoy life afloat.

When I last posted I was heading north aiming to cross the pennines. However, I had to make a U-turn and head back to home waters to see my doctor while I got myself sorted.  I spent the latter part of March making my way back down the canals to Northampton and then along the river Nene to Peterborough where my eldest son lives.  I spend 3 weeks in the area waiting for my medication to kick in.  By mid May I was on the mend and spent a week crossing the middle levels to join the river Gt Ouse at Denver and then made my way to my home port of St Ives.  I've now spent a month in the area catching up with friends and enjoying this lovely stretch of river.

Chapel Bridge - St Ives 

Stoppages and more stoppages

It's been a funny old week.  After making my way back along the Llangollen Canal I moored for a day at the junction with the Shroppie and took advantage of a sunny day to get a bit of black paint on the hull. 

I then had a pleasant day cruising up to Middlewich where the Shoppie connects with the Trent & Mersey.  Middlewich, while only a small town, is a busy canal junction with at least 5 boatyards almost end-to-end along a single mile of canal. It is also home to the unique narrowboat Elizabeth with her distinctive superstructure. 

I spent a couple of days there as I was in no hurry due to the stoppage beyond Anderton just 10 miles up the canal.   The canal trust carries out much of it's planned maintenance in the winter months aiming to have all the work completed by Easter ready for the main boating season.  This does make navigating through the winter months a bit tricky and I have managed to plan my way around most of them.  As my way north was blocked until the end of the week and I planned to go down the Anderton boat lift to spend a week on the river Weaver.  Unfortunately the information on their website is out of date, in fact a year old, and thus I arrived yesterday to find the lift was closed until 19 March.  This meant I was now stuck as the closure I was waiting to clear was only half a mile further up the canal.  Resigned to waiting for the weekend I got on with more spring cleaning and today was pleasantly surprised on walking along the canal to find the closure had been removed and the canal was once again open.  

This afternoon I moved up the 6 miles to Preston Brook where I wanted to stop to collect some boaty bits from the large chandlery here, tomorrow mornings job.  The Bridgewater canal is not owned by the Canal and River Trust but rather by the Manchester Ship Canal.  As a result stoppages are not shown on the CART website and I was informed by a fellow boater, who enquired as to where I was headed, that there is a stoppage on this canal which starts on Sunday for 2 weeks.  A quick check of the location shows it is 25 miles away so I'll now have a couple of busy days getting the boat through before the weekend - And of course rain is forecast.  I've never been so keen to see Easter. 

 

The Llangollen Canal

I spent a week in Chester, including a two day trip to the end of the canal to visit the Inland Waterways Museum at Ellesmere Port.  Amongst it's many exhibits the museum has a 100 year old working boat. Although they always look romantic the actual living accommodation comprises a single room at the rear known as a boat man's cabin which is only about 7 feet long.

After a long days cruising I retracing my route back to Hurleston junction and the following day I turned onto the Llangollen canal which welcomes visitors with a flight of 4 locks immediately, just to get you in the mood for the remaining 25 over the 40 mile journey ahead.  Although the canal is famous for the longest and highest aqueduct in the UK it is otherwise largely devoid of interest.  It passes a few villages and small towns but largely meanders through the Shropshire countryside.  That said it is not without some beautiful views - just nothing outstanding.

But then, through the trees one catches a glimpse of that masterpiece of engineering spanning the Dee valley.

And then, as you clear the final turn the famous "ribbon in the sky" appears before you. It really is quite a magnificent sight although you don't get a true impression of the hight due to the trees alongside until you are out there, 126' above the valley bottom.

When it is suddenly all too evident. Especially today when a 50 mph gale was blowing up the valley.

On my previous trip 3 years ago I made the mistake of arriving during a school half term and the canal was full of boats. Knowing that the final 4 miles to Llangollen is narrow I decided to give it a miss on that occasion.  

This time I was determined to complete the canal and I am so pleased I did.  The canal beyond the aqueduct narrows and winds as it tracks the contours of the valley side. The canal itself threads like a stream through the trees and frequently opens up stunning views of the majestic Welsh hills.

On reaching the canal terminus at Llangollen there was little room to moor and the best views were behind me so I turned around and trundled a mile back up the canal to a quiet spot with views up the valley. This spot will do me nicely for a couple of days while I explore the delights of Llangollen.

My next major waterway objective, later this month,  is to take Mr Bunbury down the Anderton boat lift.  As it's name suggests this is a lift for boats where you simply sail into a large water filled container which is then lowered 50' to join the river Weaver.

To Chester and a lovely surprise

I've spent the last week gently cruising up the Shroppie and arrived in the city of Chester this morning after an early start but more on that later.  I stopped over again in Gnosall - last time I passed this way I saw the Olympic flame being carried through the town.  

The canal has a short ivy covered tunnel but is better know for it's extremely tall bridges where it passes through some deep cuttings. 

And the shortest telegraph pole.

Although the cuttings tend to limit the view there are many stretches which have stunning views across the surrounding countryside.

After spending a couple of damp days in Market Drayton, mainly because I knew there were two lock flights totalling 20 locks in the next couple of days which I didn't want to tackle in the rain if possible.  Thankfully the rain cleared and I made my way up to Audlem, home of a famous canal side pup - The Shroppie Fly.  It is the only pub I've seen with a bar designed as a narrow boat. It also served a very enjoyable jacket potato.

A bit of history - The name refers to a boats operated in the horse-drawn era called fly boats.  They were use to carry perishable goods and travelled 24 hrs a day carrying two crews each doing a 12 hour shift and changing horses along the route. 

On Thursday I set off with the intention of reaching Chester but the weather once again changed to heavy showers and with around 3 miles and 8 locks to go I called it a day and moored up at the Cheshire Cat pub where, after a long hot shower, I repaired for dinner. 

You may recall I mentioned an early start for Chester this morning. Well my youngest son, Simon, is married to a teacher and I text him to see how the break was going.  You could have knocked me down with a feather when he replied that they were spending a few days in Chester but were leaving the next day.  Hence I set off at first light, about 7:45, with ice on the ropes and managed to reach Chester around 10 giving me time to catch up with them for a couple of hours before they set off home. A lovely and unexpected surprise which really brightened my day.  

I wasn't too happy with my mooring as I'd stopped as soon as I found a suitable spot in the city centre,  a Mecca bingo hall isn't my idea of a good view. After walking around the city for a couple of hours I moved the boat a mile or so passing the city walls and descending the final staircase of 3 lock to reach the canal basin which is much more open. 

I now plan to spend a few days here, including a trip to the northern end of the canal where it joins the Manchester ship canal at Ellesmere Port.  After that I'll retrace my route to Hurleston junction where the Llangollen canal awaits.